Part 6 · Lighting and grip · Lesson 5 · 6 min read

Shaping Light — Flags, Nets, Silks, Diffusion, Grids and Bounce

Block, cut, spread, focus and bounce light

Shaping light often takes longer than turning it on. To block light and create shadow, use flags, cutters and floppies; to reduce the amount only, use nets (a single is about 1/2 stop, a double about 1 stop); to spread and soften, use silks and diffusion; to control spill, use grids and skirts. Bounce light back into the dark side with white boards or reflectors, and pull light away with black surfaces (negative fill) to add shape. When you need a large surface, stretch fabric on frames such as 4×4, 6×6 or 12×12.

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Course outlinePart 6 · Lesson 5 · 30/49
Illustration of a black flag and a white fabric frame set in front of a light to shape it
AI-generated illustration

Five jobs — block, cut, spread, focus, bounce

Three identical lights with a flag, a net and a silk in front — below the flag the light is cut into shade, below the net the same beam continues but dimmer, below the silk the light spreads wider and dimmerFlagBlocks — shadeNetCuts — same qualitySilkSpreads — softer
Light reaching the floor with a flag, a net and a silk in front of the same light.
  1. 1Flag — Blocks light, creating shade behind it.
  2. 2Net — Reduces the amount while keeping direction and quality.
  3. 3Silk — Spreads light wide to soften it, and also reduces the amount.
What you want and the tool for it
GoalToolResult
BlockFlag, cutter, floppyCreates shadow and dark areas
CutNet (single, double)Quality barely changes; only brightness drops
SpreadSilk, diffusion fabric or gelThe source gets bigger and softer, and dimmer
FocusGrid (egg crate), skirtLess spill to the sides
Bounce or subtractReflector, foam board, black clothFills shadows or makes them darker

Flags, cutters and floppies — blocking light

  • Flag — A rectangular frame covered in black fabric. Use it to block light hitting the lens, or to keep light from spilling onto walls and backgrounds.
  • Cutter — A long, narrow flag. Use it when you need to cut a long band of light, such as across the top of a background.
  • Floppy — A large flag with an extra panel that folds out. Folded, it’s a regular flag; unfolded, it blocks twice the area.
  • Distance and edge — A flag close to the light gives a soft shadow edge; the closer it is to the lit subject, the crisper the edge.

Nets — cutting the amount only

A net is a frame covered in mesh. It lowers brightness while keeping the light’s direction and quality nearly the same, which helps when moving the light or changing its output is hard.

  • Single net — One layer of mesh, about 1/2 stop less.
  • Double net — Two layers, about 1 stop less.
  • Open-ended net — One side of the frame has no edge, so the border shows less in the image. Use it to darken only the part closest to the light and even out brightness from front to back.

The exact reduction varies a little with the mesh material and distance. If you need a precise value, measure before and after with a light meter.

Silks and diffusion — spreading light

Silks and diffusion let light through while scattering it in all directions, making the source bigger. Heavier diffusion is softer but cuts more light. Strengths are often called full, half and quarter.

  • Diffusion gel — A thin film you clip in front of a light or onto a frame. Each filter manufacturer has its own numbering, and widely used numbers such as 216 (full), 250 (half) and 251 (quarter) are sometimes used on set as shorthand for strength.
  • Silk — White fabric stretched on a frame. Fly it wide over the actors under midday sun to turn harsh sunlight soft.
  • Frame sizes — Named by side length in feet: 4×4, 6×6, 8×8, 12×12, 20×20. Large frames catch the wind like a sail, so pay special attention to stand weight and tie-downs.

Grids and skirts — focusing light

Softboxes are soft, but their light spreads everywhere and easily spills onto the background. A fabric grid (egg crate) on the front concentrates the light forward and cuts side spill. A skirt is black fabric wrapped around a softbox or lantern to block light in one direction. It’s great in small rooms to keep light off the walls.

Reflectors and bounce — returning and subtracting light

  • White reflector — Returns light softly to gently fill shadows.
  • Silver reflector — Returns light harder and stronger. It reaches farther but can be dazzling.
  • Foam board — A light, easy-to-find white board. Mount it on a stand as a bounce key or fill. Paint one side black and it doubles as negative fill.
  • Negative fill — Placing black fabric or board close to one side of the subject to remove light bouncing in from the surroundings. In rooms with lots of white walls, it brings back shape to the face.
  • Bounce lighting — Aim a light at a ceiling, wall or board and use the reflected light. It spreads wide, but picks up the color of the surface, so choose a white one.

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