Part 6 · Lighting and grip · Lesson 4 · 7 min read

Stands and Mounting — C-Stands, Pin Sizes, Grip Heads, Clamps and Apple Boxes

C-stand parts, baby and junior pins, clamps, apple boxes

Placing lights and frames exactly where you want them, safely, is the foundation of grip work. The C-stand, the most common stand, has a base, riser, grip head and grip arm, and gear mounts on two basic pin sizes: the thin baby pin (5/8 inch) and the thick junior pin (1⅛ inch). Where a stand won’t fit, clamps, autopoles and wall spreaders mount gear to walls, ceilings and structures, and apple boxes laid flat or stood up adjust height or provide a base. Every piece of gear has a weight and direction it can handle, so always think about load and center of gravity first.

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Course outlinePart 6 · Lesson 4 · 29/49
Illustration of a corner of a set with a flag held by a C-stand and stacked apple boxes
AI-generated illustration

The C-stand — grip’s basic tool

A C-stand holds almost anything: lights, flags, small frames, reflectors. Its three legs sit at different heights, so you can nest its legs with another stand’s or set it up straddling a curb or step.

C-stand seen from the side — 1 base with three legs of different heights, 2 extendable riser column, 3 grip head on top, 4 grip arm held in the grip head, reaching sideways with a flag at its endFlag1Base2Riser3Grip head4Grip arm
Parts of a C-stand.
  1. 1Base — Three legs at different heights. Nest them to stand it up in tight spots.
  2. 2Riser — The column you extend to set height. Raise the thick lower section first.
  3. 3Grip head — The head that clamps an arm or gear when you tighten the knob.
  4. 4Grip arm — The rod held in the grip head that reaches sideways. It has a second small head at the end.
  • Raise the thick section first — If you fully extend the thin top section first, the stand loses strength.
  • Let weight tighten the head — The long-standing convention is to keep the grip head knob on the right as you face it, so the weight of the load turns the knob in the tightening direction.
  • Mark the arm end — Put a tennis ball or bright tape on any arm end sticking out at eye level to prevent injuries.

Pin sizes and other stands

Lights connect to stands with two main sizes. The thin 5/8-inch (about 16mm) pin on top of a stand is a baby pin, and small lights slide onto it. Heavy lights have a thick 1⅛-inch (about 28mm) junior pin that goes into a socket on the stand (a receiver). If sizes don’t match, use an adapter, but never force a heavy light onto a thin pin.

Stand types and uses
StandUse
Light standSmall and medium lights. Light and easy to fold, so you carry them a lot
Combo standSturdier than a light stand, for big lights and frames. Check the pin size for each model
Junior standHolds heavy lights with thick junior pins
Roller standHas wheels to move a big light without taking it down. Lock the wheels once set
High standFor raising large frames or lights very high

Grip heads, grip arms and clamps

A grip head clamps a rod or pin between grooved discs. There’s one on top of the C-stand and another at the end of the grip arm. Mount a flag or small light on a grip arm and you can shape light at a distance from the stand.

  • Super clamp — A small clamp that grabs a pipe or rod and takes a baby pin for small lights or monitors.
  • Cardellini-style clamp — Wide-opening jaws that grip flat or square surfaces such as door frames, boards and lumber.
  • Pipe clamp — Hangs lights from ceiling pipes or truss. Always add a safety cable.
  • Grid clamp — For hanging lights or gear from a studio ceiling grid.
  • Baby pin plate — A plate with a baby pin that screws onto a set wall or apple box so you can mount a small light.

Every clamp has its own jaw range and weight limit. Pad surfaces that mustn’t be damaged with rubber or cloth, and after clamping, give it a shake by hand to make sure it won’t slip.

Autopoles and wall spreaders — rigging without stands

  • Autopole — A telescoping pole wedged between floor and ceiling or wall and wall. Attach clamps to hang lights or backdrops. A weak ceiling can crack under the pressure, so use a pad.
  • Wall spreader — End fittings that go on a length of lumber. Wedge the lumber between facing walls, such as in a hallway, and hang lights from it. Pad the walls to protect them.
  • Load — These hold up by pressure alone. Avoid heavy lights and don’t let people linger directly underneath.

Apple boxes — sizes and positions

An apple box is a sturdy wooden box. Use it to adjust an actor’s height, raise a camera, stand or prop, or as a seat. Starting from the largest, the full, each size halves the height: half, quarter, and the very thin pancake.

Apple boxes — top row drawn to scale: full (about 8 in), half (about 4 in), quarter (about 2 in), pancake (about 1 in). Bottom row: a full apple box laid flat (lowest and most stable), on its side, and on end (tallest)SizesFullabout 8 inHalfabout 4 inQuarterabout 2 inPancakeabout 1 inPositionsFlatNew York · most stableOn its sideChicagoOn endLA · tallest
Top: sizes. Bottom: three ways to set a full apple box. The small labels on the bottom row are US nicknames (crews may call them differently).
Apple box sizes
NameThickness (approx.)Use
FullAbout 8 in (about 20cm)Base, seat, raising height
HalfAbout 4 inRaising or matching height a bit more
QuarterAbout 2 inEvening out small height differences
PancakeAbout 1 inSlight adjustment underfoot

The same box is lowest and most stable laid flat, medium on its side, and tallest but least stable on end. The names vary from crew to crew, so when in doubt it’s safer to say “flat” or “on end” plainly. Avoid the on-end position when someone will stand on it.

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