
The C-stand — grip’s basic tool
A C-stand holds almost anything: lights, flags, small frames, reflectors. Its three legs sit at different heights, so you can nest its legs with another stand’s or set it up straddling a curb or step.
- 1Base — Three legs at different heights. Nest them to stand it up in tight spots.
- 2Riser — The column you extend to set height. Raise the thick lower section first.
- 3Grip head — The head that clamps an arm or gear when you tighten the knob.
- 4Grip arm — The rod held in the grip head that reaches sideways. It has a second small head at the end.
- Raise the thick section first — If you fully extend the thin top section first, the stand loses strength.
- Let weight tighten the head — The long-standing convention is to keep the grip head knob on the right as you face it, so the weight of the load turns the knob in the tightening direction.
- Mark the arm end — Put a tennis ball or bright tape on any arm end sticking out at eye level to prevent injuries.
Pin sizes and other stands
Lights connect to stands with two main sizes. The thin 5/8-inch (about 16mm) pin on top of a stand is a baby pin, and small lights slide onto it. Heavy lights have a thick 1⅛-inch (about 28mm) junior pin that goes into a socket on the stand (a receiver). If sizes don’t match, use an adapter, but never force a heavy light onto a thin pin.
| Stand | Use |
|---|---|
| Light stand | Small and medium lights. Light and easy to fold, so you carry them a lot |
| Combo stand | Sturdier than a light stand, for big lights and frames. Check the pin size for each model |
| Junior stand | Holds heavy lights with thick junior pins |
| Roller stand | Has wheels to move a big light without taking it down. Lock the wheels once set |
| High stand | For raising large frames or lights very high |
Grip heads, grip arms and clamps
A grip head clamps a rod or pin between grooved discs. There’s one on top of the C-stand and another at the end of the grip arm. Mount a flag or small light on a grip arm and you can shape light at a distance from the stand.
- Super clamp — A small clamp that grabs a pipe or rod and takes a baby pin for small lights or monitors.
- Cardellini-style clamp — Wide-opening jaws that grip flat or square surfaces such as door frames, boards and lumber.
- Pipe clamp — Hangs lights from ceiling pipes or truss. Always add a safety cable.
- Grid clamp — For hanging lights or gear from a studio ceiling grid.
- Baby pin plate — A plate with a baby pin that screws onto a set wall or apple box so you can mount a small light.
Every clamp has its own jaw range and weight limit. Pad surfaces that mustn’t be damaged with rubber or cloth, and after clamping, give it a shake by hand to make sure it won’t slip.
Autopoles and wall spreaders — rigging without stands
- Autopole — A telescoping pole wedged between floor and ceiling or wall and wall. Attach clamps to hang lights or backdrops. A weak ceiling can crack under the pressure, so use a pad.
- Wall spreader — End fittings that go on a length of lumber. Wedge the lumber between facing walls, such as in a hallway, and hang lights from it. Pad the walls to protect them.
- Load — These hold up by pressure alone. Avoid heavy lights and don’t let people linger directly underneath.
Apple boxes — sizes and positions
An apple box is a sturdy wooden box. Use it to adjust an actor’s height, raise a camera, stand or prop, or as a seat. Starting from the largest, the full, each size halves the height: half, quarter, and the very thin pancake.
| Name | Thickness (approx.) | Use |
|---|---|---|
| Full | About 8 in (about 20cm) | Base, seat, raising height |
| Half | About 4 in | Raising or matching height a bit more |
| Quarter | About 2 in | Evening out small height differences |
| Pancake | About 1 in | Slight adjustment underfoot |
The same box is lowest and most stable laid flat, medium on its side, and tallest but least stable on end. The names vary from crew to crew, so when in doubt it’s safer to say “flat” or “on end” plainly. Avoid the on-end position when someone will stand on it.
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